Collection Spring/Summer 2014
The Spring/Summer 2014 VANESSAMORIN® collection takes the essential idea of clean silhouettes and natural easy colours combining sophisticated details and the play with light and shadow , underlined by contrast combination of orange and ivory or ivory and black applied to the same piece.
The collection is inspired by August Sander´s photograph taken in 1926 showing Helen Abelen, wife of the Cologne painter Peter Abelen, reflecting the so-called “new woman” of the Weimar Republic. With her short, slicked-back hair, collared shirt, thin necktie and trousers, Frau Abelen is presented as a distinctly androgynous figure and signals a defiance of traditional gender roles. Staring determinedly out at the viewer Helene Abelen’s animated expression falls somewhere between bravado and agitation.
Inspired by the strength and confidence captured by August Sanders, VANESSAMORIN takes the controversial play with feminine and androgynous into a new level, resulting in her signature style which is simple and elegant on the surface but elaborated and complex in detail and construction.
Monochromatic tones and neutral palettes underline her interpretation of modern, elegant and understated dressing with a twist of ethno-details and burnt orange. Washed out tones of grey keep things cool, calm and collected. Ivory tones matched with cream evoke comfort and calm, blending in the coolness of black and white. The warm, fresh oranges of a coral reef and the burnt orange of a sandstone rock in a desert sunset offer a natural and an ethnic angle that are both contrasting and harmonic.
We see in VANESSAMORIN a modern nomadic woman on her journey through the history and time influenced by Bauhaus cultural references and revolutionary approach.
Key items of the collection are dresses and jackets featuring feminine, precise details and clean, strong and straightforward shapes on the back, skillfully mixed with the flowing silhouettes on the front. Further detailing includes demonstrative usage of zips on the surface, layering and the play of light and shadow through colour/fabric blocking in one garment.
Drawing inspiration from an idea of a “new woman” – confidence and subtle femininity playing a defining role in her character - VANESSAMORIN daily wear includes banana-shaped pants, pencil skirts and shorts with flowing feminine details on the front, as well as short pleated skirts. A new addition, zipped bomber jacket, is interpreted in a feminine approach suggesting an hourglass–shaped waist. Sophisticated yet relaxed parkas, zip hoodies with specially constructed hoods and reversible two-worn-in-one coats are mix-seasonal part of the ensemble. There are as always several luxurious pieces such as silk and tencel tops, blouses and long day-to-night dresses, elegantly falling and fitting every shape and age. The eye catcher of the collection is a printed floor length dress with cut open back.
VANESSAMORIN progressive looks next summer are defined through easy elegance, comfort and unique details in choice of fabrics (cupro, tencel, silk, cotton), repetitive signature-cuts (V and three-angle shaped back details), uniquely produced diffuse weaves resulting in sand-resembling orange and important key items such as jersey tops, biker jackets, leggings and hooded parkas as well as dresses for days and evenings. Avantgarde windmill jacquards in shades of white, asphalt inspired prints as well as brush mark prints in shades of grey give an ethnic angle to the collection. The core essence remains to give a modern, new woman as much choice and freedom as possible to dress independent and remain confidently fashionable all day long.
